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Spike, Anne and Lil too. You have all been a great help. From tomorrow though it's up to me.

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This section of the walk is great for hill climbing and provides some great vantage points to view the surrounding countryside including Swaledale, the Vale of Mowbray and the North Sea Coast, your first opportunity to look towards the Coast to Coasters ultimate goal. Comment - For the last three days I had enjoyed the comfort of accommodation at my sisters in Northallerton.

A perk for one born so close to the path of the Coast to Coast. It was appreciated and made the crossing a little easier and cheaper! Wainwright's Coast to Coast Walk A personal record of my walk in with written journal and photographs. It's also grouse shooting country, so if you see any gentry with guns make sure you sling them down the nearest mine shaft so the birds can enjoy the open moors without being shot at. The path heads down to the road for an interlude, then heads across Harkerside Moor to the River Swale.

Cross the river at a footbridge, then it's a short hop to the pretty village of Reeth, with shops, 3 pubs, buses and a camp site. Day Reeth main route via Swaledale lead mines to Keld, Once again today there are two alternatives - the Coast to Coast route high up through the old mine workings, or a beautiful low level route along the banks of the River Swale.

The high level route is very interesting for those into old industrial relics, but not pretty, and in bad weather you would be better off taking the alternative.

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Take the road out of Reeth, then turn right up the hill to Riddings Farm, then contour the slope west to the bizarrely named farm of Nova Scotia. Eventually you will arrive at Surrender Bridge, then follow the old miners' track uphill, passing the Old Gang smelt mine, before heading west in bizarre scenery. Believers of daft conspiracy theories will probably think the famous moon walk scene from Tranquillity Base was actually filmed around here - "Just one small step on the Coast to Coast, a giant leap on the Wild Yorkshire Way".

The route eventually drops down to Gunnerside Beck, with more ruined mine workings, before climbing again and dropping once more to the aptly named Crackpot Hall. From here it's a short hop to Keld village, and our true destination Keld Lodge is up the hill from the village centre.

Keld Lodge is a hotel with beer, food and rooms, but it is usually booked up with Coast to Coast walkers. Camping is available in Keld village, but try to stay away from the river, as midges are the tiniest of creatures but the greatest of nuisances. Have a good night in Keld, but don't expect to sit outside on a summer evening, unless you wear a space suit. Day 25 alternative : Reeth alternative via Gunnerside to Keld, If you spent the night at Keld Lodge, your route takes you away from Keld along the road above the River Swale to start with, but soon branches off right up hill, following the river to Ravenseat, where refreshments are available.

You'll get chatting to Coast to Coast walkers here, so don't forget to mention the Wild Yorkshire Way so they can tackle it next year. After a brew, follow the path alongside Ney Gill, past a free for all cabin providing emergency accommodation if you're tired or fed up. Before you get to the road, turn north to climb up to the famous Nine Standards Rigg summit at m, with the famous Nine Standards just beyond. There's a good shelter at the Standards for lunch, then retrace your steps back to the viewpoint and back to the summit, where there's another shelter nearby.

The "decorated" summit of Nine Standards Rigg is impressive, boasting the Nine Standards, the view point, the summit trig point and several wind shelters.

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The view in good weather is amazing, including the Lake District, Yorkshire Dales and even the far off North York Moors which we met intimately much earlier in our walk. In bad weather, make sure you find the summit before continuing. The paths over the Rigg are divided up into 3 routes at different times of year, to avoid erosion caused by countless Coast to Coast walkers.


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We need to find the Green Route, but it does not actually visit the summit, so we need to descend until we meet it at its highest point near Rollinson Gill, then continue downwards to the road. If you want to avoid a wild camp tonight, your best bet here for a bed is Kirkby Stephen, which has plenty of B and Bs because of its elevated status as a Coast to Coast staging point, and you may even get someone to pick you up from the road. If you do find your way to Kirkby Stephen, make sure you don't get attacked by the resident parrots.

If you press on, it's a steep pull up to High Pike Hill, then follow the ridge south, looking for a suitable camp site along the way. You're not going to reach civilisation tonight, so if you're not camping, go back to the road and tackle Mallerstang Edge tomorrow. I camped near a wind shelter on Hangingstone Scar near Raven's Nest, but you can choose your own pitch.

Obviously any extra miles you do will reduce your load tomorrow, so enjoy your night in the Wild Yorkshire Hills.

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If you decide to visit the Tan Hill Inn, I recommend you split the walk there and stay overnight, purely for the romance factor of staying at the highest pub in England. The main route heads from Keld to Ravenseat, as despite the attractions of the Tan Hill Inn the walking is only average, and it's a big detour.

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However, you could split it into 2 days by staying at the Tan Hill Inn after a short day from Keld, or you could continue on to Ravenseat and stay there or get a taxi from there and back in the morning. From Keld Lodge, drop down back into Keld village before heading north on the Pennine Way, but be sure to step aside to make room for PW walkers heading for Kirk Yetholm - they'll need all their energy on the morass of Sleightholme Moor if it's wet. They won't have heard of the Wild Yorkshire Way, but if you get chatting you could always Bluetooth them a link.

The Tan Hill Inn is loved by walkers and bikers, but be careful - the loveable but eccentric landlady has been known to snatch buzzing and vibrating mobiles from customers and drop them in a glass of water.

Rooms and camping are available here, along with beer and food. From the pub, take the road but then branch off right on the public footpath to Ravenseat, where you rejoin the main route. A very hard day from your wild camp on Mallerstang Edge, looking down into the upper Eden valley and over to the Lake District.

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If you wild camped on Mallerstang Edge or Hangingstone Scar, you should enjoy the view before heading down, with your first objective being Hell Gill Bridge. Before you lose height, survey the land ahead, if visibility is good. There's no path here, but there's often a quad bike track which, if it goes in the right direction, can make a useful path. In bad visibility, your best plan is to find Hell Gill Beck, which you will hit if you walk due south, then follow it downstream, alongside a wall, to Hell Gill Bridge.

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From now on it's easy - just follow the High Way south, past the River Ure which at this point is just a few minutes old, then turn right downhill just after High Dyke farm to reach the Moorcock Inn. If you spent a night up on the fells you will want to spend quite a bit of time here. Eventually if it's still light you drag yourself away along the road briefly, then take the path up to Garsdale Station on the Settle-Carlisle line. From here, it's road walking, but don't be put off. I'm not normally a fan of road walking, but the Coal Road is an exception - a magnificent high level route with superb views including the Scafells and Great Gable to the west.

Now listen carefully - your next objective is the pathless summit of Great Knoutberry Hill. Looking at the map, you may wonder why the route goes this way, but the clue is in the name, "Wild Yorkshire". Great Knoutberry Hill is exactly on the border, and there are several ways to get there. Firstly, watch for a track leaving the Coal Road to the left, on a sharp bend in the road at Cowgill Head Bridge.

Follow this track up the moor until it peters out, then continue straight on, heading for Widdale Little Tarn. From here, follow roughly the Yorkshire boundary line past Widdale Great Tarn and on to the bleak summit. From the summit the going is easier, as a faint path can be followed by the wall down to the Pennine Bridleway, then down Arten Gill to Cow Dub.

The second alternative is to continue along the Coal Road until the Pennine Bridleway branches off to the left, then continue along this track until a faint path ascends directly to the summit alongside a wall near Pikes Edge. If the weather is bad, or you don't fancy the pathless climb, you can continue along the Pennine Bridleway before rejoining the main route down Arten Gill. In really bad weather, just continue along the Coal Road past Dent station, and turn left at the T junction to Cow Dub Farm, where you can camp if you wish for a small fee.

There's also a pub here, the Sportsman's Inn, but sadly this pub is not always open, does not allow you to use their WiFi important in an area where there's no mobile signal , won't let you charge your phone, and is generally unwelcoming. As its name suggests, it caters more for the sort of people who have fun killing birds and animals, rather than enjoying them in their rightful home.


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They do have rooms however, and there are also camping facilities a mile down the road at Ewegales near Cowgill. Dent station is also close by, although you'll have to climb up the road to reach it. The highest point on the entire walk today, Whernside m, on a short day so you've plenty of time to enjoy the magnificent views from Whernside summit. From Cow Dub farm, it's a pleasant road walk along the river to upper Dentdale, but eventually a path branches off to the right and passes Dent Head Farm, before climbing up through the woods past the north entrance to the Blea Moor tunnel on the famous Settle - Carlisle railway line.

After the tunnel, the path exits the wood onto the open moor to climb Blea Moor on a good track, roughly following the line of the tunnel far below. The highest point is about m, after which we descend towards Little Dale underneath the towering Whernside, with the renowned Ribblehead Viaduct in view.

Shortly after the south entrance to the tunnel, stay on the west side of the railway line, and turn very sharp right to join the Three Peaks route. This is the 3 Peaks motorway, so on a weekend watch out for tired walkers rushing north on the southbound carriageway.